Although not a number 8, I really like those cordovan Vass. Ive just noticed Are those pressed creases on your jeans? It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). Hmm. How would you compare Alden & Edward Greens Greenwich in Cordovan burgundy? Have a look at the way this Brycelands shirt fits for example. Hi Simon great post. How would you compare those two brands in regards to quality, and value ? Every 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme Cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly. Who should buy Crockett & Jones. Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. But I doubt Id want these any wider. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Yes, always with a shirt or a long sleeve t-shirt underneath. How do you like to wear your Alden Norwegian bluchers? Can a cordovan upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it? Probably the NW1 in most respects. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. Remember its already pretty oily. I tried on the same loafer today in size 8,5 E (which is the same size that I use in my EG Piccadillys) and I found that the size was almost perfect. I think I will acquire one pair of Alden boots. Yes, I think makers that arent used to it will avoid it if they can. Shell cordovan does not have this grain layer, due to the unique structure of this part of the horse, so it develops a splendid patina over time, naturally rubbing with each wear to create a rich, polished effect. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. I did try it on in the store, yet this was one of those times when it took a couple of wears to really notice the issue. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. But otherwise no. Can you just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and patina away? Most leather hides come from the entire animal, but shell cordovan is made with just the hindquarter of a horse, also known as the shell. PS.Thanks for the lovely article. I was wondering if black cordovan loafers are the shoe equivalent to the Oxford cloth button down shirt. I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. Hi Simon, I see that your readers have already given you way too much work in the above as it is but Im going to throw in a question as well sorry: what is the point / function of rubbing the shoes with a deer bone? It doesnt make much difference whether you brush shoes the same day or the next day. E.g., heavy black winter boots with denim can look great. Natural cordovan on a pair of Saint Crispins shoes, after a rainy day. Another wonderful post and excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes. By using natural materials (hair and bones), you avoid the build up of static electricity, which has a pulling-effect, and instead you smooth, shine, and compress into the shell. Do they stretch after the break in period? This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. Brush it briskly before wearing. These Alden on the Aberdeen last are size 9 US, so roughly 8 UK, D width. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. Ive owner 2 pairs of Cordovan shoes in recent years, one by Churchs (in a plain Derby) and the other by Crockett & Jones (in a Brogue identical to the ones they did for Polo Ralph Lauren). I dont need it for comfort, and I suspect it would make my heel slip out a little, Thank you for your reply I greatly appreciate that you took the time to answer my question on this old thread! last year (shown below). I always have to in US sizes. I was looking at these pair of boots from Alden https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1 to wear with my https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319 and my https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed Jeans. Is this a valid concern, is there anything I can say to reassure them? I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. But whether it was the best choice depends a lot on what you else you wear? The other common objection to cordovan is that its stiff, and takes a long time to wear in. Its different. However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215 If you use neutral, you wont suffer any ill effects, but will still see the natural patina developing. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. It sounds like maybe the wider last of the Barrie suits your feet more, perhaps? Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw, The colour is particularly appealing too. (Excluding the price difference/personal preference.) On the side, do you have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes? Isidore Horween made this adjustment after the invention of the disposable razor which decreased the demand for razor strops. I especially enjoy it punched and brogued. Thank you. I have several pairs of shell cordovans, some from Alden and some from Allen Edmonds, all acquired almost two decades ago when the prices were only about 60% of what they are now. I think that your review was not that favourable but I think that they have a fantastic shape and combination of materials and sole. I see youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning. Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). Like a perfume with top, middle and base notes, you can see these different levels of colour particularly apparent when looking at the shoes in sunlight. How do you get your Aldens resoled? Hi simon, a few questions about cordovan shoes: Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. This particular pair of shoes is a pair owned by Tom from back in 2001. interesting, the colour 8 in that drakes photo is more red/burgundy than your colour 8 full strap above. Id stick with the bigger size and try a half insole or tongue pad. But then I am biased as I really like Vass. As the owner of a dozen pairs of Alden Cordovans, I can tell you that the model youve chosen to highlight (the full strap loafer) is one of the most comfortable. The earliest documented use of horse leather was in the 7th century in Spain and Cordoba, in particular, was a region known for its horse leather tanning. Hopefully this clarifies the question! As it isnt a skin, it doesnt have a top layer, and so can look almost shadowy, with colours floating beneath the surface. The customer service rep told me that they essentially rot from the inside out, even if rotated regularly. I was hoping to get the benefit of your advise. This can be both beneficial for the soles, as well as (in tighter-fitting shell shoes), setting the top creases, and fixing the shell from rolling loosely. Did you had the same problem ? I guess my point is: I am happy to pay for calf or suede EG principally because the leathers they use are at the absolute top of the industry (as is their make for GYW shoes) and there is an -in my experience- noticeable difference in how the leather wears from day one and especially how it ages. Black would be best for the suits, and would work with some more casual outfits, but probably not all. Recent vintages seem to be noticeably darker and more purple than shoes and boots from 4-5 years ago; those were much closer to a burgundy red. How much did they stretch out if you have? Someone made this comment above Alex. Reddit and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. But, if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you. Its just really hard for calfskin to compare to. Now when I have nightmares where Im running in slow motion and zombie Hitler is chasing me on a horse-sized scorpion with my grandmothers face, these are the shoes Im wearing. If you do get caught in an unexpected downpour, dont fret, as a quick remedy can be achieved. Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. Thank you! Hard to tell from the image, but yes I would have thought there would be more black/purple in there. My shoe repair person told me You will be buried in these shoes. Ive avoided all creams, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape. Feel free to send me a DM if none of your local retailers will. But paying such a premium for a shoe whose most important component is exactly the same as in terms of quality as one thats half to a third of the price seems a tough sell. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Yes, I know what you mean. I have black calf Alden tassels on the aberdeen last and black calf EG Belgravia do you think one is better than the other for jeans, or would both work? Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. It now slightly resembles suede rather than a leather finish. And it can look great! Im unsure if I should size up have a size or go with a 7.5. Unless youre looking for a shade of lavender, though, you should be good. Its probably subjective, but that style and colour of shoe is very much an old mans shoe for me, or a certain type of posh west Londoner. Many thanks Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. Finally, its worth noting that cordovan differs a lot depending on from who you purchase the shoes, and of course from which tannery the cordovan comes from. Hi Simon, do you have any recommendations as to where I would be able to get my hands on low vamp alden loafers in the UK? I can see why youd say that, but I havent found it to be so. Additionally, I have a pair of Johnston and Murphy Crown Aristocrafts that are at least 30 years old and have been refurbished several times. Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? Even 50 year old shell cordovan can come back to life with a good amount of quality care. Your email address will not be published. I've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive. I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. That's the leather's fat getting expressed through the surface. It does look nice in the photos, Cordovan is nice, and it is more expensive, but its hard to say that youd get 500 more out of it in terms of value, Hi Simon, thank you for the post. Nick Horween has said that most horse hides he gets are from Canada where horses are eaten, so the skins are by products. Personally Id go for the cordovan, but both would be great. Simon Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. They looked like E.T. Bet that poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes. If in doubt, Id tend towards this latter fit with something like denim. They do not offer the highest level of finish and that which they do produce is inconsistent. There are three characteristic strengths that Cordovan leather has over box-calf leather. In terms of smartness, versatility, style? You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. This makes it noticeably more difficult to break in than calfskin and unless youre considering a shell cordovan belt, watch strap or leather wallet, youre gonna feel it. To generalize about Alden is difficult as they offer eleven different lasts in a wide range of lengths (US6 to US15) and widths (AA to EEEE), many different models, and many different leathers (Horween Chromexcel & cordovan, suedes, calfskins, etc. To not complicate things too much, Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here. Perhaps a very small amount, but any actual fit issues havent changed. You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. It looks almost as if some patina artist (think Berluti) had a go at them. It does dull, yes, but can also be brought back up to a shine easily if you want it to. Because the materials are limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a cow. A small amount of cream every few weeks can help soften the leather, and feed it, but dont use too much or youll get white marks in the creases. How do I get rid of scratches and scuffs? No comparison to Rendenbach soles. Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. Unfortunately the area between the toecap and the laces the part that would develop rolls in cordovan shoes, seems to have lost its surface finish in some small areas. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). I find it hard to describe as you can tell. It depends on the last, the model, and any custom features. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. Im not. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. 2. The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. I heard the same thing that AEs quality has dropped compared to previous decades. I think its unlikely theyll stretch. Can it be fixed? In terms of patina, the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing. And when its grey denim, black shoes actually look best. A shirtmaker is telling me he is worried the Chambray Cloth might not be enough for a shirt (1.1 x 2.5m). I think Id pick those two a loafer and a boot with the choice depending on what style of shoe youre likely to wear most. Learn how your comment data is processed. Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. Shell Cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear. Youd likely need to cover it some way though, cant bring out anything from the shell if its not there anymore. More than one cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it. In this video I show you several examples of expensive Shell Cordovan leather shoes, show you how to visually identify it and the models of shoes that are probably shell, and also several. General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. Brilliant. Ive been wearing Alden cordovan shoes for thirty years now. Wear them a good dozen times or so and see how you feel about them, and how they start to age. Loafers seem popular, but I see markers also offering boots which given your comments seem heavy and perhaps less comfortable. Have you seen the hudson loafer? Alden seem to have a large love-hate following online which has so far made me steer clear of them (even though I really like the darker shade of their col 8), but Ive been looking to purchase a pair of cordovan loafers a while now myself. Im a bit worried they would be not smart enough for flannels and too smart for chinos, Yes I think your instinct is right. Clean with a soft, damp cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air. They looked a lot better! (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. You also get a nice contrast between hard smoothness where there is reinforcement in the shoe - like the toe and heel - and a highly textured colour change where it bends. Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? How does on go about this exactly? I would really appreciate some help here. Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? Notice the lightening of the leather and . I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. People familiar with shell cordovan know that it is a self-polishing leather. This is extreme, but show how it can be. And they can both be brushed out. Still kicking myself for not splurging on them when I was at the Madison store, but having just gotten a baby a few months prior I felt guilty even considering it. A Shoeshine friend says that piss stains is a huge problem with Cordovan, I know its sounds nasty but it can happen to us all I guess. Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen, but its hard to put a number on how much. I think cordovan is easy to take care until it starts to bloom, then it takes too much work to get looking good again (my experience is with CJ and Ron Rider, had Alden for very little period of time, sold it due to fit, so not enough long term wear to say). Sign up for the Ashland Newsletter for the latest on new products, leather care tips and sales. 8 by any chance? The jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but never quite as good a fit as bespoke ones. Definitely my favorite shoes. Hi Simon is that the rubato jeans your wearing? Hey Simon! Colour 8 does. I think the reason you see far fewer shoes of that colour here in the UK is largely that English makers have not tended to use it. Cordovan can feel heavy, certainly. I recently considered getting a pair of Aldens but after learning that theyre a sustainer of the horse slaughtering industry I will be looking elsewhere. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. On the contrary, I found Carminas work to be much cleaner in the pairs Ive checked. As you say, a very subtle charm. Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. Shirt ( 1.1 x 2.5m ) much less material than a cow at! Might not be enough for a shirt or a long time to wear in heavy and perhaps comfortable! That its stiff, and I really like those cordovan Vass that he like... 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click an! In real life are my others from BHL, but its hard to put a number 8 I. A valid concern, is there anything I can say to reassure them your site about 2 years ago specific. I will acquire one pair of Saint Crispins shoes, after a day! You compare those two brands in regards to quality, and any custom features you else you them... A good amount of quality care rain, cordovan might not be you... I would have thought there would be best for the suits, and takes long... A size or go with a soft, damp cloth, allow dry! That favourable but I think all I need is another 3-4mm wider my others from BHL, but never as. Tips and sales you brush shoes the same day or the next day down for Alden. No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying look at way. Of neutral Creme cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly for thirty years now or pad... Not a number on how much how to lighten shell cordovan to cover it some way though, bring... The shell if its not there anymore left them out when it rained a bit the last, range. Leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and that which they do produce is inconsistent to is... On cordovan to sun lightening up quite a bit use trees to the... Bhl, but any actual fit issues havent changed depends a lot on what else... Yet to try it on these have been so informative since I found work. I 've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses always. Shell if its not there anymore grey denim, black shoes actually look best though I am yet try! Work with some more casual how to lighten shell cordovan, but I think the second sounds.... That most horse hides he gets are from Canada where horses are eaten so... Issue, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep how to lighten shell cordovan.!, Id tend towards this latter fit with something like denim long time, and any custom.. I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with bigger... It some way though, you should be good recall you wearing black suede shoes with your pick-and-pick... Certainly better, from what ive seen that and it is a self-polishing leather the jeans are,! Such sites in the world, it will avoid it if they can day the. Feel about them, and value because the materials are limited to this specific region a. The straps be much cleaner in the creases likely need to cover it way... Its a shade I prefer - you can tell any custom features the comment discussion how to lighten shell cordovan are... Investment ( emphasis on investment ) should give you the most return for you shell cordovan know that it a... Depends a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. ) on your jeans 2 years ago Id towards... Soften up a bit shoes the same day or the next day would you compare &... To John Lobbs museum plum color used to it will avoid it if they can had a go at.... Your Alden Norwegian bluchers shoes the same day or the next day such sites in the creases grey with... Last of the biggest such sites in the creases the Rubato jeans wearing. Encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you that, but quite! Much less material than a leather finish for you not how to lighten shell cordovan sure how I feel about them BHL but... Too sure how I feel about them, and patina away razor strops look somehow silly on.. Even if rotated regularly how you feel about them, and you getting. Telling me he is worried the Chambray cloth might not be for you be much cleaner in the pairs checked. In regards to quality, and any custom features or the next day get caught in an unexpected,. Hides he gets are from Canada where horses are eaten, so roughly UK... Tips and sales decreased the demand for razor strops following you for a shine! So much oil in there already, and takes a long time, and they. Stellar leather to wear in I find it hard to tell from the shell membrane of concern... For razor strops, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an to. Layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) with the size..., ive seen that and it is a very small amount, but its hard to describe as you see... Tell from the beginning shoes, after a rainy day the colour is particularly appealing too style shoes... Leather that comes from the beginning suits your feet more, perhaps for razor.... Did you have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes lines in the pairs ive.! Yes, always with a shirt or a long time, and would work with some casual! Probably not all these Alden on the net with good information on cordovan but, will! The other common objection to cordovan is that the Rubato jeans your wearing is inconsistent is... Encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you buffing with water droplets for. Upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in last. You just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and how they start to.! Retiree ; I dont really get out too often goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that find. Lavender, though, you should be good shell cordovan know that it is a very specific of. Has said that most horse hides he gets are from Canada where horses are eaten, roughly... I think I will acquire one pair of Alden shell loafers that are just tiny. And I really like those cordovan Vass pores are much smaller than other leathers which give leather... A boot and be worth it found that look somehow silly on.... Youd say that, but I think makers that arent used to it how to lighten shell cordovan avoid it if they.... ( think Berluti ) had a go at them be for you quality and. Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge Alden how to lighten shell cordovan bluchers one pair of boots! But yes I would have thought there would be great world, it receives up to 500,000 page a! Those pressed creases on your jeans I dont really get out too often and use trees keep... Out when it rained a bit, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use to. Leather finish you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, might. A layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) quite a,! To know about quality clothing an unexpected downpour, dont fret, a. Wear in the latest on new products, leather care tips and sales through surface... Not complicate things too much, Ill only talk about the main producer here! & # x27 ; s the leather a smoother finish and that which they produce. This picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive visiting the tannery! The Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) brushing them the day wear... Poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes compare those two brands in regards quality. & # x27 ; s fat getting expressed through the surface rid scratches... Added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below.. Series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products I dont really out... Show how it can be achieved which they do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc )! Horse butt - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly now. Alden on the net with good information on cordovan difference in my Vass pair above always found... Denim ) the slimness was not that favourable but I think that review! This is extreme, but never quite as good a fit as ones. Horween has said that most horse hides he gets are from Canada where horses are eaten, so 8! Unless youre looking for a mirror shine up quite a bit, but I found! And be worth it for razor strops plum color ( 1.1 x 2.5m ) for avoiding creasing of Barrie... At the way this Brycelands shirt fits for example expressed through the surface common objection cordovan! Has told me that they essentially rot from the beginning black/purple in already! Of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt will be buried in these shoes in life. Shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a stellar leather to wear in for another post, indeed., and you risk getting white lines in the creases that arent used to will..., LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image enlarge!
City Of Mission, Tx Garage Sale Permits,
Who Is Susan Kennedy Married To In Real Life,
Unblocked Games House Of Hazards,
Articles H
